Telegram: Calabria / The Unexplored Side of Italy

How to avoid the crowds in Italy this summer

In 2023, Italy is expected to welcome 127 million tourists, which is just 4 million fewer than the record in 2019. Almost half of these will be foreign, and this in a country with a population of 59 million. That means that almost every other person you meet will be a foreign tourist. The most visited cities in Italy are Rome, Florence, and Venice, while also Sicily, the Amalfi Coast, Lake Como, and Lake Garda are among the most popular.

The irony is that when so many people travel to experience Italy, chances are that that the experience won’t be very Italian at all. When we recently visited Positano, most people around us – at restaurants, cafés and even in grocery stores – seemed to be from the states. The houses and the landscape around us still looked like the Amalfi Coast, but the local culture was not, as it had been adjusted to suit the wants and needs of American visitors. After just a few days, we decided to leave Positano behind us. We took the boat to Salerno, and from there, we continued by train to Calabria, in the most southern part of Italy.

Why we like it

Calabria is not as “polished” as many other places in Italy. You could say that it’s more rustic if you wish, or poorer, if you want to be more honest. What we enjoy here is the privacy and the spectacular landscape. Nowhere else in Europe will you see turquoise water and long, sandy beaches without a single person. It’s the most secluded place you can find, completely away from the crowds but only about an hour or so from some of Italy’s main attractions (like Sicily and Puglia).

Brief history of Calabria

Calabria has played an important part in Italian history and was even the birthplace of the name “Italy”, given to the region by the Ancient Greeks who settled here in the 8^th century BC. For centuries, Calabria held great strategic importance in geopolitical events, due to its very central location, in-between North Africa, Greece, and Rome. Today, there are three historical ethnolinguistics minorities, speaking different languages and with their own cultural traditions.

When Italy was unified in 1861, Calabria became incorporated into the new country, the kingdom of Italy. Already from the beginning, there were tensions between the affluent north and the impoverished south. Calabria was neglected and about 70 percent of the population was illiterate. Because of the non-existent ties to the state, Calabrian society became dominated by an organized crime group called ‘Ndrangheta, similar to the Mafia in Sicily. This group formed a parallel state that co-existed alongside the Italian state. Today, the grip of the *Ndrangheta has weakened, but Calabria’s turbulent past and (by today’s standards) remote location has made it go unnoticed by international travellers.

Where to stay

Many choose Tropea as their base in Calabria. The town is considered one of the prettiest in the region, and it’s famous for its clear and warm sea water. In Tropea, Villa Paola, a former convent turned into aristocratic home turned into boutique hotel, is the most popular choice.

This time, we chose a different option by staying in a small palazzo in the hillside town Badolato Borgo, on the opposite coast from Tropea. The owner is an old friend who, when not spending her time in Badolato Borgo, works as an orthopaedist for MSF (Doctors without Borders).

Where to go

Calabria is large. If you want to explore (and you do), and almost regardless of where you are staying, renting a car is mandatory.

We asked our MSF-friend for her best Calabrian tips:

“Calabria is famous for its liquorice and there are many factories and museums to visit. I would also recommend a wine-tasting at Sergio Acuri, but make sure to call ahead so they know you’re coming.

For great swimming and excellent restaurants, head to Catanzaro.

If you visit during mushroom season, go instead to Serra San Bruno, a small village in the middle of the forest, known for its porcini (as well as beautiful scenery). If you don’t feel like picking it yourself, go to Ristorante Different Sibio, they are known for their mushroom dishes. If you want to explore more of Calabria’s inland, go to Monasterache or Stilo, and stay for a cup of coffee at one of the many terraces that you pass by.

I like to bring a parasol and go down to the beach. As there are usually no other people around, I can easily leave the parasol and a towel over night, if I know that I will come back the next day.

If you’re looking for more organised sun-bathing, go to Pietragrande or Catanzaro Lido. Downtown Catanzaro is more of an actual city, complete with its own funicular railway.

Another nice town is Cittanova, and if you go there, don’t miss their botanical garden.”