Lohi Telegram / ÄNG, Ästad Vingård
Celebrate Sweden's national day in the country's premiere region for foodies
Traditionally, Midsummer has been Sweden's most culturally significant holiday. Every year, it takes place in the end of June, on one of the brightest days of the year, when the boundary between our world and other dimensions is so thin that it’s virtually non-existent.
Elves are said to dance in the meadows, and if you pick seven different kinds of flowers and place them under your pillow, you’ll dream of your future partner. It’s a day full of symbolic rituals, manifested in everything from singing and dancing to food and drink.
In many ways, Midsummer is Sweden’s unofficial national day. This is why many are surprised to learn that the official date to celebrate Sweden is actually June 6 (and has been since 1983).
Why is Sweden today of all days? Few Swedes will know the answer to this question. Partly, it’s to commemorate the anniversary of Gustav Vasa becoming king on this day in 1523, partly it’s to honour the introduction of a new form of government in 1809. But regardless of the reason, it’s now officially a bank holiday and so people “celebrate” having the day off by eating and drinking.
For the best and most unique experience of Swedish cuisine, visit Halland, Sweden’s premier region for foodies.
Despite its small size, Halland’s culinary richness has been recognized far beyond Sweden's borders (and is probably, to be honest, better known abroad than in Sweden).
In 2018, ÄNG opened as part of Ästad vingård. It seats around 30 guests, who are served a New Nordic tasting menu with a focus on local ingredients from the Halland landscape.
This stunningly designed, greenhouse-inspired restaurant is set over two levels and sports a pared-back look. In addition to the obligatory Michelin Guide-star, ÄNG also boasts a green Michelin-star for its rigorous work on sustainability, as well as three rings from 360° Eat Guide, which focuses on sustainable dining.
The remote location of ÄNG, far from any larger city and hidden deep in the woods, brings to mind “The Menu”, in which Ralph Fiennes plays a master chef who leads his dinner guests through one final night of madness and exquisite cooking. Fiennes’ restaurant shares many aesthetic qualities with ÄNG, but I’m sure there are fewer homicidal psychopaths with a love for fine dining in Halland than in the film.
When done properly, a dining experience is a journey and to reflect this, the guests will experience every part of ÄNG during their dinner.
First, you have a finely crafted snacks at the chef’s counter, before taking the elevator to the downstairs dining hall. Here, you’re served a no-waste surprise tasting menu that uses fantastic seasonal produce from the surrounding Halland region.
Skilfully prepared dishes are delicate, balanced and full of flavour.
Through the large windows you have a beautiful view of the surrounding landscape (complete with grazing cows).
I recommend that you try the vineyard’s own (organic) wine, but they also offer wines from other sustainable vineyards around Europe. As of June 1, it’s (finally) possible to buy wine directly from the vineyard in Sweden, and soon, you’ll be able to purchase wine directly in the shop also at Ästad.
The cheese course is taken in a magnificent wine cellar, after which you return upstairs to the lounge, where you’re treated to something sweet before you exit through the restaurant’s heavy glass doors.
Where to go once you’re done? The restaurant sits as a solitary glass building on a field (“äng” is Swedish for meadow).
Luckily, the vineyard also includes a luxury hotel.
In its newest addition, Sjöparken (“the Sea Park”), you have direct access to a large natural pool from the guest room’s bathing deck, complete with an outdoor shower.
Start your morning with a quiet swim in the pool, before enjoying the hotel spa.