Telegram: Cinque Terre / Less is More
Slowing down on the Ligurian Riviera
The misconception begins already with the name: “Cinque Terre” means “Five Lands”, which many visitors will read as “one destination, divided into five different parts”. Many visitors will attempt to explore all five towns in one day, usually by taking the local train from one town to another, seeing the Ligurian coastline through a moving train window.
Perhaps arriving in Riomaggiore in time for breakfast, going for a quick swim in Manarola, stopping for lunch in Corniglia, having coffee in Vernazza and aperitivo in Monterosso, before returning to La Spezia in time for a late dinner.
With a skip and a beat, visiting one of Italy’s greatest cultural treasures has been ticked off the list of things to do in life.
This is an idea as terrible as it is popular.
The (hypothetical) situation outlined above is common advice for how to visit Cinque Terre, often recommended by travel guides, and it’s perfectly feasible for those who are pressed for time.
But this type of travelling comes with the sensation of always being on the move, never stopping to actually enjoy the scenery or take in the local culture.
Perhaps that is why the trains, buses and boats that continuously go back and forth between the five towns are overflowing with visitors during high season, many so eager to see the next stop that they are almost fighting their fellow passengers to get on and off at the small train stations.
It could also be the reason that the towns seem to be overcrowded during the day, but in early mornings and in the evenings, the main squares and small fishing ports are quiet, calm, and beautiful.
Before visiting Cinque Terre, you first need to know what kind of experience you are looking for.
If you travel here to explore its hiking, you can stay in either of the five villages, as they all connect to different trails, but if you want to go swimming, Manerola is the best option, with Riomaggiore a close second. There is a beach by the city centre in Vernazza, but it tends to be very busy in summertime, and unfortunately the water quality reflects this popularity; if fresh and clean water is what you are looking for, go for a swim somewhere else than here.
Many travel articles emphasise the differences between the towns. To briefly summarise:
Manarola is often classified as the prettiest village, and is described as a good place to stay if you are looking for peace and quiet. Riomaggiore is bigger and tends to attract a younger crowd, Vernazza is often said to be the best and geographically most strategic place to stay, Monterosso is the largest town and has the best views while Corniglia, the only one not by the sea, is perched high on a cliff overlooking the ocean.
In this way, most guides underscore what sets the five towns apart from one another, making it seem important to visit them all, so as not to miss out on the nuances. Of course, as they are different towns, there will be some architectural differences, but if you are mainly concerned with the general atmosphere and ambience, it doesn’t really matter which one you choose to stay in.
However, once you have arrived, the best advice is to stay put:
Fight the urge to check off visits to the other four towns. Instead, get to know the town you are in, explore its narrow alleys and terraced vineyards, try the local legumes and the olive oil that is particular to this particular place, and don’t worry about the other towns.
If you enjoy Cinque Terre, there is always the opportunity to come back and stay in another town, but rushing in-between all five will take away from the experience, leaving you stressed and sweaty, and the opposite of relaxed.
One way to get to know Cinque Terre more in-depth is to explore its culinary heritage. The sweet wine Sciacchetrà is unique to this region, so make sure you try it. It is usually served at 14° C, in small, high-stemmed glasses, to accompany desserts and dry pastries, but if aged properly, it is also ideal together with strong cheeses.
Wine has been grown and cultivated here since 4000 BC, and has always been part of the livelihoods of the inhabitants.
As the cliffs are terraced and very steep, the vines are very difficult to harvest, making each glass of wine precious. The production of Sciacchetrà is very small, which is why it traditionally is reserved for very special occasions.
Most of the vineyards in the region grow white grapes (since 1973, united under the “DOC Cinque Terre”), often made into a dry white table wine, particularly rich in salt, deposited here by the strong ocean winds.
The trails in Cinque Terre are among the most scenic in Italy. In total, there are 120 kilometres of trails inside the Cinque Terre National Park, so it would take several days to explore them all. The most popular is “Sentiero Azzuro” (“The Blue Trail”), connecting the villages from Riomaggiore to Monetrosso, and can be hiked in a day.
A good idea is to check beforehand if parts of the trail are closed for repair (many trails have been affected by flooding, rock slides and erosion) and to remember that closed-toed shoes are mandatory.
The reparation of the trails points to a key part of life in this region: The five towns of Cinque Terre, as well as the many terraced farms that cover the surrounding hills, are exposed to harsh winds, heavy rains and stormy sea.
To maintain the manmade terraces and narrow building has been a struggle for thousands of years, and for this reason, many consider the Ligurian population to be particularly resilient, used to fighting the strong forces of nature for the preservation of their homes.
If you have looked at images of the towns and imagined yourself going swimming, prepare for a challenge.
While technically four of the five towns are located right by the sea, the steep cliffs make it difficult to access the sea.
Add the large number of day-visitors that flock here, and you will soon prefer to begin and end each day with a swim, while avoiding the ocean during the day, insteading soak up some sun on a terrace or going for a walk along a trail, perhaps visiting a vineyard or a producer of olive oil while the sun is in its zenith.
No cars (that aren’t owned and operated by locals with special permits) are allowed, so prepare for this when planning your trip
To stay
20 minutes from Fegina beach, with breathtaking views.
Localita' Minali, 2
Monterosso al Mare
To Eat and Drink
La Laterna
Marina, Via San Giacomo, 46, Riomaggiore
+39 0187 920589
Family-owned restaurant that serves traditional local food.
Via Roma, 31, Vernazza
+39 0187 812381
Gianni Franzi Ristorante e Hotel
Rustic and traditional, using mainly local ingredients.
Piazza Guglielmo Marconi, 1, Vernazza
+39 0187 812228
Corniglia Cantina de Mananan
Charming place that also has its own vineyard.
Via Fieschi, 117, Corniglia
+39 0187 821166
This is exactly what I thought when planning our trip almost 13 years ago. We parked ourselves in Corniglia, and walked to a couple of the other villages during our 4 day stay. Mostly we enjoyed 'our' village each morning and evening, and wandering close by. Having a nice glass of wine on our porch overlooking the main square before dinner, we'd watch the hordes go by quickly, eyes on the guidebooks so as not to "miss anything." If only they could had read your article!
How fortunate I was to have found this article today. We are visiting Italy in May and have been working on our itinerary for Cinque Terre. I think your advice about not trying to do too much in a short visit is very wise. I have made note also of your restaurant recommendations. Grazie!