TELEGRAM: MAUI / AN EARTHLY PARADISE

An brief guide to our favourite island

Hawai’i is – geographically speaking – isolated from the outside world. The island group is hundreds of miles from the nearest mainland. It’s incredible that they have been inhabited for as long as they have. The first people probably arrived around 1000 AC, after which they lived in isolation for hundreds of years. During this time, they developed their own philosophy of life and culture, based on the natural characteristics of the islands.

Since 1959; Hawai’i is part of the US, and its cultural image has become strongly influenced by American pop culture; 1980s posters of two sloping palm trees on the Kaanapali beach in sunset, Tom Selleck as Magnum PI, Elvis Presley’s Blue Hawai’i and Kauai operating as the backdrop of the Jurassic Park-films. Without even having visited, many people still have a strong idea of what Hawai’i looks like: White beaches, clear blue sea and verdant greenery. Hula skirts, hula dancing and leis.

The clichés are so numerous and so consistently reinforced, that they often overshadow the actual place and the real-life experiences of being here. This is also why there seems to be so many different aspects to Hawai’i: not only the commercial myth, as seen in TV-series and films, nor simply the actual islands of Hawai’i with their particular kind of scent, sounds and a unique colour splendour, but also a third dimension, hidden in plain sight – the ancient,

Hawaiian knowledge of how life should be organised, not least in regards to how the material world in many ways is interconnected with the spiritual realm.

I can’t remember the first time I heard of Maui or saw an image of one of its many golden beaches. Since I was a small child, Maui has been a mythical place, where I longed to go but thought I would never get to actually visit.

One day, I found myself stepping out an airplane at the Honolulu airport, a stop on my way to Maui. After decades of waiting, finally being in Honolulu felt almost surreal. Already from that first moment, I could tell that there was a particular kind of energy in Hawai’i, more full of life than anything I had previously experienced.

Since that first time, we’ve returned to Maui many times, and it has become one of our favourite places, and one where we feel most at home.

It’s no coincidence that the name of this journal – Lohi – is a Hawaiian word, meaning slow (or slowness), because in Hawai’i, things move at a slower and more relaxed pace, allowing you to be in the moment.

Our connection to Hawai’i is also why we were so distraught upon hearing about the Maui wildfires of 2023. Many of the places where we have spent the most time – like Lahaina – were particularly badly damaged by the fires. But reconstruction is ongoing and sooner or later, Maui will once again become a harmonious place that welcomes visitors from near and far.

The History of Hawai’i

The island group of Hawai’i was born by enormous fire: a crack appeared in the surface of the earth, hundreds of metres below sea level, in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. Hot lava poured out of the planet’s inner core, with such violent force that its effects are still clearly noticeable in the many impressive mountain peaks and deep valleys of the islands. This energy makes the colours more intense, gives food a richer taste while scents are more vibrant.

Many are those who have likened this part of the world to an earthly paradise. The initial volatile eruption of fire has continued ever since that first outburst, creating a chain of islands. The volcanos also helped to capture moisture in the air, in this way bringing rain to the newly formed islands. For thousands of years, this rain has moulded the black lava peaks and transformed them into dramatic mountain ranges. Beneath sea level, coral reefs have successively emerged. 

One of the most influential of the Hawaiian gods was Kāne, who appears in the shape of the sun each morning, spreading light over the beaches and hillsides.Kāne provides sunlight but also fresh water, winds and even fertility and procreation. In other words, Kāne is the provider of life itself. He came from Kahiki, the Hawaiians’ ancestral home, and was first sighted in human form off the coast of Maui.

When not appearing as human, he could take the shape of lighting or of a star, but also appeared as other elements, such as the wind. The most famous of all the gods was however the temperamental mother goddess Pele, who created new land by violently pouring hot lava into the sea. Still today, Pele is working on creating new islands: the seamount Lō’ihi is steadily growing from the bottom of the surface and eventually it will become the newest addition to the Hawaiian Islands.

“Hawai’i” is both the name of one island and of the entire island group; hundreds of islands, spread over 2 400 square kilometres. Despite its vast area, Hawai’i only has approximately one million inhabitants, concentrated on the eight main islands – Ni’ihau, Kauai, O’ahu, Molokai, Lanai, Kaho’olawe, Maui and Hawai’i – in the southeast part of the island group.

The islands were uninhabited until 1000 AC, when travellers arrived from the South Pacific. Some researchers claim that approximately 100 years later, a new wave of migrations from Polynesia (which literally means “many islands”) began. They would travel in double-canoes that could hold up to 60 people, while also transporting food plants and animals such as baby pigs, chickens and dogs.

Travels between Hawai’i and Tahiti could have continued in this way for many years. They would navigate for thousands of miles between these islands using the stars in the sky, water currents and other clues provided by nature. The settlers brought with them a language and a culture, which would progress undisturbed by outside influence for hundreds of years.

It wasn’t until 1778, when captain James Cook and his expedition arrived, that Hawai’i’s isolation from the outside world was broken. Soon, not only the US but also countries in Europe gained knowledge of the tropical paradise. The consequences were devastating, and many Hawaiians died when encountering the newcomers, as they had a completely different kind of immune system. The high death toll led to an influx of immigrant workers to take the place of the lost native workers;

A renewed local resistance to the US, in favour of a stronger independent identity and Hawaiian sovereignty, is steadily building today.

Metaphysical Maui

Most of Maui is covered in a particular kind of material – young, barren lava flows that often lack soil and thus also vegetation. The red dirt, an earthly matter that many deeply associate with the Hawaiian landscape, is the result of the humidity and rain leaching minerals from the soil, resulting in iron which will stain your skin and clothes.

Already upon arrival in Hawai’i, it is evident for most visitors that the islands have an extremely unusual atmosphere. There is a kind of peaceful yet forceful energy, which makes you feel as though you are coming home (even if it is your very first visit).

The energy seems to stem from the land itself, but it is also felt as a presence in the ocean and in the air. Even though it is invisible and without sound, to the ones sensitive enough to notice, it has a distinct vibration and rhythm. This energy is called “mana”, a form of divine power and non-physical energy.

The source of mana is all around; in the water, in the earth and in the sky. It is in animals, plants and stones as well as in humans. It is also particularly heightened in certain places, where it is almost a tangible presence. It can be acquired by anyone, but can also be passed to others or placed into objects.

The mysterious force of mana originates from the deities, who possess vast quantities of it, but who also share some of it with people, animals, places and things. No part of life is separated from mana.

Mana can also leave a mark, similar to how scent can leave a trace. As nature and culture were considered as one, mana is thought to exist equally in rocks, waterfalls and the ocean waves as well as in buildings, garments and other manmade objects.

What makes Maui so special? One reason is this intangible quality, the energy that seems to vibrate in the air, mountains and forest of the island. Another is easier to explain; it’s the beauty of the landscape.

Two of our favourite places are the sites along Hana Highway – with its many waterfalls, black beaches and thick forests – and the Kula region is a quaint, rustic area on the slopes of Haleakalā, in the central part of the island.

If Hana Highway is a popular destination with lots of people, Kula is more remote, though equally stunning.

To Stay

Maui Eco Retreat – Maui Eco Retreat is built upon land known by the Ancient Hawaiians as the “resting place of mature souls.” The new luxury is space, and this site is blessed to be immersed in nature. Located in the majestic and lush Valley of the White Owl on the North Shore. The secluded location creates a magical refuge that is centrally located, while also offering easy access to Haiku, Paia, Hana, and Haleakala. Here, you can experience authentic Hawaii, and immerse yourself in the rich culture and land.

To Eat and Drink

Moku Roots – An award winning farm-to-table-to-farm restaurant serving plant based wraps, sandwiches, bowls, salads and more.

Maui Brewing Co  – Hawaii's largest craft brewery.

To Visit

Hana Highway – It’s not about the destination but about the journey. Driving past waterfalls, stopping to visit coves, black lava beaches and spectacular views. Recommended is not to miss stopping at Honokalani Black Sand Beach, in the Waianapanapa State Park. 

Makena Beach – A serene beach with pristine water, overlooking the iconic Molokini Crater.  

Haleakala National Park – A park that cares for endangered species, some of which exist nowhere else, amid stark volcanic landscapes and sub-tropical rain forest.

Waianapanapa State Park – Remote, wild, volcanic coastline offering solitude and respite from urban life. Lodging, camping, picnicking, shore fishing and hardy family hiking along an ancient Hawaiian coastal trail which leads to Hana.

Iao Valley State Park – 4,000-acre ʻĪao Valley State Park is known for providing the best views of the legendary ʻĪao Needle, or Kuka’emoku in Hawaiian. Kuka’emoku towers 1,200 feet high above the lush ʻĪao Valley floor (2,250 feet above sea level) and is also called the phallic stone of Kanaloa—the Hawaiian god of the ocean.

O'o FarmPark – O’o Farm is the result of the owner’s extraordinary commitment to providing quality local produce for their local Maui restaurants to deliver a true “Farm to Table” experience.

Hookipa Beach – Great spot for surfing and turtle-spotting.

Makawao Forest – At 2,500 feet above sea level, the beauty of Makawao Forest Reserve is truly unparalleled. This unique forest is located in the upcountry of Maui, Hawaii, and features flowering ginger plants, fragrant eucalyptus trees, and spectacular views of the island and ocean below. This region also has cooler temperatures than Maui’s beaches and is a great place to take a break from the sun.

Waioka Pond – Waioka Pond, also known as Venus Pools Maui, is a secret hike to the Venus Pool out in Hana on East Maui. This hike is located on private property, so make sure you get permission to go to the Venus Pool so that you can have legal access. After a quick 5 minute hike from the road, you'll find yourself at these natural pools right next to the ocean and many locals use this spot as an exciting place to cliff jump into the water.