Telegram: le Périgord Noir / Verdant Wonders

A spectacular garden and hillside village in one of France's most beautiful regions

Jul 24, 2023

La Dordogne is one of the most unspoiled regions in France. Unlike its neighbour Bordeaux, Dordogne flies under the radar for many people, though it is very popular among British expats and people looking for a slower lifestyle, more connected to nature. It has one of the longest histories in Europe, as well as one of the most beautiful landscapes of France, which is why it is a source of immense national pride for many Frenchmen. This is also what has made it one of my personal favourite destinations. I enjoy the unspoiled nature and picturesque villages. Archaeologists have found evidence of human habitation in the Dordogne as far back as 400,000 years ago. Its many castles and manor houses bear witness of its rich history. The capital is the town of Perigueux, which is why the French often informally refer to the area instead of as “le Périgord”.

The verdant wonders of the Marqueyssac Gardens

One of the most spectacular places in the area are the Marqueyssac Gardens in the Périgord noir, located in the south, which is considered the “classic” Dordogne and often referred to as “the soul of Périgord noir”.

This is honestly one of the most elaborate and extravagant gardens I have ever visited, but if visiting on a hot day, make sure to take your time, stay in the shade and drink plenty of water. The gardens include over six kilometres of shaded pathways, lined with 150,000 hand-pruned boxwoods, offering panoramic views of the entire Dordogne Valley.

Three of the paths lead to le Belvédère, which is a cliff 800 metres from the chateau, 192 metres high and 130 metres above the river below.

The paths are built around a small castle, which in its current form dates back to the late 18th century (around the time of the French revolution). The gardens were created by Julien de Cerval in the years following 1861, when he returned to France after defending the Papal States.

Boxwoods have been used in European gardens since at least Roman Antiquity and an integral part of the Italian culture that de Cerval was so invested in.

The garden became de Cerval’s life’s work, merging his interest in Italy with his French heritage and thus creating what is widely considered one of the finest examples of 19th century gardens.

Throughout the years, his original plans have been both preserved and added to.

Today there are also small staircases, three drystone huts, a large esplanade, rock gardens and several benches carved into the rocks.

During the World War II, the chateau was home to the great-grandfather of its current owner, Marius Rossillon, more famous as O’Galop and the founder of Michelin’s famous mascot Bibendum (in 1898).

Besides inventing the famous Michelin-character, he was also an artist and illustrator. Setting up his atelier in nearby Beynac in 1904, he spent his summers here ever since, and then relocating to escape Paris during the Nazi occupation, trading water colour-paintings for fresh produce and in this way helping his family to survive the war.

The medival village of Beynac-et-Cazenac

Only about ten mintues’s drive from the gardens is one of the most beautiful hillside villages in France, Beynac-et-Cazenac (which, as the name implies, is actually the combination of two ancient villages). If you think you recognise it, you’re correct – parts of Chocolat was filmed here, while the castle has been featured in Revenge of the Musketeers and The Last Duel.

For those visiting in the summer (from mid-May to mid-September), make sure you don’t miss the farmer’s market, open every Monday, where you can buy locally grown vegetables and other local products. It is known for its excellent quality and many organic legumes.

In medieval times, a castle would not be built anywhere. The location had to be strategically selected; near a river crossing or by passages through hills, mountains or frontiers. At times, they were planned as a permanent home for a ruler and family, at other times they were built with the intent to only be temporarily inhabited.

Wooden structures were restructured and turned into larger stone buildings, with the addition of advanced architectural structures and fortification, such as round towers and strong gates.

An excellent place to build a caste was on a natural hill, near a cliff, on the bend of a river. If there had previously been Roman walls, these stones could be reused in the building process. Often, the building process would take years to complete, requiring enormous wealth, at least one architect, as well as hundreds of skilled workers, from carpenters to blacksmiths.

The fortified Château de Beynac ticks all of these boxes: built in 12th century on the foundation of Roman ruins, perched on a cliff, overlooking the Dordogne River, at times operated as a gateway to the valley.

During the Hundred Years War, the castle was one of the strongholds of France, as the river marked the border between England and France.

Its tall silhouette dominates the surrounding town of Beynac-et-Cazenac, today one of the main attractions of the region, known for its historic beauty.

The first historical mention of Beynac dates to 1115, when Maynard de Beynac made a donation to the nuns of Fontevrault. The family, the village and the entire region of Périgord Noir are closely interlinked with one another.

For a brief time, in 1197, Richard the Lionheart lived here, along with his army, but the original owners fought back and could soon retake possession of their fortress.

In 1827, the municipalities of Beynac and Cazenac were joined, changing the name of the town to Beynac-et-Cazenac.

The picturesque stone houses and cottages descent down, towards the riverbank that lies at the feet of the town. Narrow streets ascend from the castle, offering panoramic views of the surrounding landscape.

The main reason so many like to visit is not only for the beautiful village or fascinating castle, but to explore and experience the verdant Périgord nature.

Many who visit prefer to also rent a canoe for travelling along the river, but there are also 45-minute river cruises – in traditional “gabarre” riverboats, available for those who are less athletically inclined.